Historic Fashions: Turning the Centuries As the centuries turn, we look to the past for comparisons of where we have been and what was worn. The following timeline is from Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries. 17th Century Turns...1690 - 1710 Fashion is the mirror of history. It reflects political, social, and economic changes, rather than mere whimsy. Louis XIV, 1690 1660 England restores its fashion capital after their Civil War 1690 Louis XIV reigns in France and dictates appearances from his exclusive position 1700 European colonists bring their fashions to North America 1710 All cloth and clothing is made by hand Women make loose fitting gowns called mantuas and are called mantua-makers Mantua, ca. 1700 silk damask. Royal Ontario Museum 18th Century Turns... 1780 - 1810 1780s English simplify their fashions. 1800 White muslin dresses suggestive of classical drapery are the fashion for women. Average skirt circumference is 104" of this sheer fabrics made possible by the new spinning and weaving technology. Chemises, ca. 1800-1807, Museum of City of New York. 1780s Rose Bertin, Marie Antionette's mantuamaker creates elaborate and expensive creations for the queen contributing to the crown's bankruptcy 1779 Samuel Crompton invents a machine, the "mule", which spins high quality cotton yarn in large enough quantities for the weavers 1789 George Washington's inauguration in New York City - the capital of the new nation 1789 French Revolution brings a fashion revolution as Frenchmen adopt the simpler, working class styles. Fashion as an organized industry ceases to exist in France from 1793-1797 and the professionals flee to other European cities, like London 1794 Eli Whitney patents the cotton gin 1800 Textile production is primarily by machine while clothing is still made by hand 1804 Shawls are the main accessory for the thin muslin dresses. 1810 Post Revolutionary Paris with Napoleon as emperor moves fashion away from the simplicity of Greek dress to magnificent European style dress for women. Men maintain their conservative styles 1845 Elias Howe patents the sewing machine 1858 Charles Frederick Worth opens his shop in Paris as the first true house of haute couture. 19th Century Turns... 1890 - 1910 1890 Clothing manufacturers tout all of the 'wonderful advancements and improvements' made possible by abundance of textiles, large American production labor force, and new cost-saving factory machines "Some dresses are more timeless yet still reflect period aesthetics". Wedding Dress, 1905, Marjorie Merriweather Post, Hillwood Museum 1890 Gibson Girl look popularized by Charles Dana Gibson, American illustrator 1891 Simple tubular skirts and little puff sleeves inspired from early 1800s style is popular 1892 Ballooned sleeves in vogue - an 1830s revival 1896 Harper's Bazar reports that "the huge melon shaped sleeves are absolutely out of date" and suggests that "the eye becomes accustomed to whatever is in vogue" 1896 Trusty blue serge suit is the classless "uniform for men" 1897 Bicycle craze….many clothing manufacturers produce clothing for a specific sport 1900 Since the French Revolution male clothing was monotonous with one exception…'sporting clothes', tennis and outing suits, skeleton coats and vests, flannel trousers, yachting suits, and bicycle suits 1901 Queen Victoria dies ending the 70 year Victorian Era…Edward VII is crowned starting the Edwardian Era, the height of sheer femininity in women's dress 1903-1907 A corset shapes women's bodies with an extra long front throwing the hips, back, and the bust forward Edwardian Lady is assembled rather than dressed, with jewels, lace, and embroidery. Paris dominates fashions 1907-1910 More vertical silhouette replaces the S curve shape. Massive hats with plumes and feathers adorn the heads above the more tailored day dresses and walking suits. Dresses, 1907-1910, Missouri Historical Society 1902 Suits are very important garments in a woman's wardrobe 1910 Edwardian Era ends with Edward VII's death Every article of female and male clothing can be purchased ready-made. Within years, shopping for clothing off the rack becomes customary Why Study Historic Fashion? Clothing is culture manifested at the most personal level. By studying what people wore and why, we gain a fuller knowledge of a specific time and place. How do we know? Costume historians use primary resources of extant garments like these featured in the calendar plus prints, portraits, photographs, letters, diaries, books, magazines, wills, inventories, and oral histories. Want to know more? Public and private costume collections preserve past fashions for current and future knowledge about the art and science of dress and appearance. Look for their exhibitions and programs. The Costume Society of America is an association for the serious study of dress and appearance. Back to Article Archive Sally Queen & Associates 2801 S. Joyce Street Arlington, VA 22202 Email : questions@sallyqueenassociates.com